from Dublin to........Mirissa, Sri Lanka: Hiking in the Transylvanian Mountains

The Hike

Back into Transylvania country with Gore and one of his mates, Alexandro (and a few others), in his lady-mobile. After a fleeting visit to Tigisoara, Gore’s hometown, we headed up high into the mountains. We were staying overnight somewhere up there. I understood that we were hiking 3-4 hours to our accommodation….turns out we had a miscommunication. So I stuffed as much crap in my small backpack as possible for the overnight stay and unnecessarily lugged it up and down the hills all day. I hate not knowing where I am going and exactly how long it is going to take. Around an hour after setting off on our hike, we approached a chair lift. This area was a ski resort during winter. The mountains were steep and rugged. From here we visited the “sphinx” rock….dubious, and then went for the (almost) summit where a large metal cross had been erected. Quite ugly really. However the view down the cliff face to the towns far below (1.6km drop) was brilliant. The cable car from below ascends at an incredible angle the whole vertical mile. Impressive. Would be a triple black diamond run to a messy death in winter. One of the guys had almost recovered from his car sickness…stopped a few time whilst walking to empty his stomach. Not an enjoyable experience (for him).

By mid afternoon we were back to the cars, rather exhausted from the walking and being in the sun. Next stop was some caves. The road there was awful. Gravel, rocks, potholes, not really suitable for a small runabout car. Gore wasn’t impressed, cursing the whole way. I told him to forget about the caves and just go to the guesthouse. Another miscommunication…the accom was right by the cave site. It was a long journey, but the camp ground/guesthouse location was worth it. Located in a remote valley (felt remote anyway) by a river, with horses and sheep running around. It was perfect to chill out in. The area is used as ski-lodges during winter and by hikers in summer. Very basic, but our place had cold beer and hot meals. No showers though.

We walked to the cave around 7pm but it was closed. It is fronted by a monastery built around 15 years ago (believe it may have replaced one that was there many years ago - the conversation was in Romanian). Strange location for one anyway. The cave runs around 600 metres deep into the side of the mountain. The priest in the monastery stuck his head out the window and let us in for a quick look. We walked 75 metres deep perhaps before it was pitched black.

The priest loved to talk (in Romanian of course). I received some translations now and again. He told a story of a group of people (pilgrams if you like) who visited the monastery to hug the cliff face, believing they drew energy from the mountain. The priest laughed at them and thought they were nutters. He was amused when I hugged the wall....only briefly though, I didn't want too much energy at the hour of the day.

Back to the guesthouse for dinner and many drinks with our fellow dorm guests, A Czech chick and some German guys I believe, plus two local search and rescue guys in their 50's whom apparently put us all to shame and drank through the entire evening and were still drinking when I went downstairs for breakfast! I believe they were on duty that day. Not a good day to get lost.

Alien landing site

View from balcony of lodge

Bear country

The monastery

The priest and the boys

Drinks and the side of my head

A deep and meaningful with one of the search and rescue guys

The other rescue guy

Sinaia way below

A moment of contemplation

Yep, it is a long way down

Sinaia

A really lovely little town squashed by surrounding mountains. The main attraction here (during summer anyway) is the Peles Castle…..brilliant! Have seen a few in my days and this is by far the most impressive. There is another equally well known castle not far away in Brasov that I didn’t get to, however this one is very picturesque but perhaps more impressive is the interior. Many castles are rundown with most of the original furnishings have been sold when the family went broke, stolen or donated. Every piece of furniture is original and extremely impressive in its own right. The wooden interior is meticulously designed and carved, the furnishings and centre-pieces designed by carefully selected artists from all over the world….no mean feat when you consider construction began in 1873.

If you are anywhere near Sinaia, go there. Do the second tour (1hr long) – there are three tour options. It is expensive but worth it (I was on a borrowed student card I must admit). And to think that it was constructed as a royal hunting preserve and summer retreat. King Carol I did win the country its independence so I guess he could justify it.