Gokova Gulf, Turkey

Seven hours further south of Selcuk is the Gokova Gulf on the Aegean Sea. A fantastically beautiful and mountainous area popular with holidayers from both Turkey and abroad. I stayed in Marmaris, one of the more conveniently located towns if heading further south, but what an awful town to visit during the holiday season. Sadly inhabited by the English package holiday crowd (and some Dutch) during summer…..and they aren't a pretty sight. White trash everywhere, as well as chip batties. Bad choice on my part. It didn’t matter so much as I’d always intended on hiring a motorbike for a few days anyway. Instead of two days, I made it three. I didn’t want to spend one of the three full days I had in Marmaris.

I didn’t do a lot here in the evenings. Couldn’t find anywhere to go out in the evenings that wasn’t trashy.

The motorbike touring was as follows:

Day 1 – Picked up the bike (a 100cc scooter) a bit later than anticipated. I’d had a reasonably big day planned so needed to motor and with a top speed of 65-70kph it wasn’t exactly a speedy trip. From Marmaris, along the “highway” towards Datca, turn left after 18km near Hisaronu, through Kizkumu and Turgulko. Stopped at the waterfall for a break but not allowed to swim. My neck was starting to ache already.

Continue towards Bozburum but take the Selimiye turnoff before you get there. I’d been recommended a place to eat here for lunch, Oman’s Place. A seafood restaurant (they all are) by the water’s edge. I really liked this small seaside town – had a really peaceful feel about it. Would definitely head back there for a few days. My grilled sea-bass was grilled in the deep-fryer though – still tasted good.

It was mid afternoon by now and I had to get cracking as I hadn’t even covered 1/3 distance. A quick look at Bozburum and straight back up the mountains to the tiny village of Sogutkoy and the even smaller (and very poor) Taslica – donkeys and hand-built stone houses were the go here.

Had intended on going to Serge as well but it was just too far along a poor stretch of road. Turned around and made tracks for Turunc, not far from Marmaris. The road was deserted, winding its way up and down the mountainside. It was noticeably cooler near the peaks. Brilliant country-side. Not so brilliant roads. Hard to see the bumps and gravel at times. Ideal for dualie or a rental bike. Wizzed through Bayirkoy (past the big tree in the main plaza) and tucked in for the stretch to Turunc. A very steep descent into this town. Found a stretch of sun-chairs and concrete in which to take a dip just as the sun was setting behind the mountains. Not sure I would recommend this town – sun disappears too early in the day and it is a little resort, but still miles better than Marmaris.

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The beehives creating road hazards

Marmaris

Grilled Fish???

Selimiye

Selimiye

Selimiye

Turunc - tunnel from the bay area to the sea beack

The mountain roads were torn up by this beast

Day 2 – Returned the bike for another one as it was leaking oil like a sieve. On the highway towards Gokova, the bike broke down twice within 20km. Rang the rental company and they sent out a 125cc. So much better. Can cruise on 75kph comfortably, wearing my protective singlet and boardies and ice-cream bucket helmet, just in case. 

Stopped at a roadside café for a late breakfast. My chef, a master Gozleme maker. Went for two potato gozlemes – excellent. Slightly spiced. Made up price. Gave them the evil eye and the price dropped. 

Down to the beach for an hour or so. Crystal clear waters, as is everywhere along this coast. From here I took a magnificent coastal road towards Ceramos to try to find another beach. Not sure I made it to the one recommended to me as there generally aren’t any signs, ,but I did stop at a random place on the side of the road – a stretch of pebbles all to myself and clearest of water I’ve ever seen.

The breakdown

Master Gozlemer - she had a banner above her head advertising her award.

Gokova Beach - chilled out town.

All this was mine

Day 3 -

The big ride to Datca and beyond on the main road. A solid hour of riding. I'd never done this much riding over a three day period. My neck and back were taking its toll. Datca is a reasonably sized town. Not much of a holiday destination if you ask me but perhaps a good base in which to make some day trips to nearby ruins and beaches.

This part of the coastline is known to be windy and as such a popular destination for windsurfers and kite-surfers. One of the best beaches in Turkey was another 15-20km past Datca, at Ovabuku. Am a bit unsure whether I actually ended up there or not, signage is poor and the road deteriorated such that I couldn't explore any further. Stayed where I thought it was....a long stretch of pebbles and a constant strong wind whipping up some small waves. Not the most enjoyable beach to be on I must admit. Bit of a let-down after all that riding. Maybe I was at the wrong place.

A long and tiring ride back, stopping at an old olive mill.

The Fremantle doctor blows strongly here

An old olive mill

Eating experiences:
- Lahmucan - a thin pizza like dish (2TL each) that you fill with salad and eat like a kebab...I did anyway. A$2.50 for dinner. Outstanding value.

- Kunefe - a baked shredded wheat dessert filled with a local stringy cheese, all soaked in a very sweet syrup, sprinkled with pistachios. Too sweet for me.
- Adana kebab - a grilled, spiced minced meat kebab plate served with the usual trimmings of vegetables, rice and salad. Level of spice can vary greatly, as with the quality of the "meat" used.
- Kebap et durum - your typical doner kebap but served in a thin wheat based wrap instead of a bread roll.
- Grilled groper at Liman Restaurant (in the Old Town Bazaar). Relatively expensive but quite tasty. Free dessert as well, not that I needed the extra calories.