from Dublin to........Mirissa, Sri Lanka: Istanbul not Constantinople

First impressions are that the immigration process could be improved and that Australians have to pay 2-3 times more for their visa than any other country (usually because Australia charges so much for foreigners to enter our country).

What a mad city. The second largest by population in the world. Mosques pepper the skyline and cars, trucks, buses and bikes plague the entire road network all hours of the day. It was quite a dramatic change of pace from the Romanian mountains. I hadn't given much thought prior to arriving about how the Islamic religion infiltrates almost all aspects of life....sometimes for the better, sometimes for the worse.

As it turned out I only ended up doing one full day of typical sightseeing out of the five nights I was there. Immediately after leaving the hostel to explore Sultanahmet on the first day,I felt crook as a dog. It was the 'Trust me, this place is good' chicken livers. A painful ache in my stomach, no other symptoms thank god, but I wasn't sure that was going to be the case there and then. Feeling miserable, I strolled down the incredibly busy Istiklal Caddesi, a foot traffic only walkway (save for the odd tram constantly ringing its bell)lined with shops that stretch for almost 2km. So many people. Stopped at Galata Kulesi (tower) which acts as a reference point for working out where you are in that section of Istanbul. Didn't go up it as the line was too long and I was feeling very weak. Down the steep Galip Debe Caddesi to Galata Koprusa (bridge), lined with fishmermen, which takes you to Sultanahmet. Looked for the Spice Bazaar just across from the bridge but think I was unsuccessful, getting lost in the maze of high-walled alleys. Trudged up to Ayasofya Muzesi, ignoring Topkopi Sarayi (the Palace). It was always going to be difficult to get enthusiastic about a mosque when you are ready to pass out. I had to sit down in the mosque a while. Was too weak to stand. Across the park is Sultanahmet Camii (the Blue Mosque). Not as impressive inside for me (free though) but you will get a different opinion depending on who you ask, so just go and see both. These are just two of the larger mosques, of the 100's and 100's that litter the Istanbul skyline.

From the Blue Mosque, I took the busy Divai Yolu Caddesi to the Grand Bazaar. Many of the stores inside cater to the tourist market but it is still cool to walk around and get lost in. Some locals were shopping there for specific items.

I was done for the day by this stage, yet had agreed to meet a friend later that night a local living in Istanbul. Met Etna, still feeling like death, and we, along with her friend had a quite dinner, bought some take-away beers and headed to the bottom of Galata Tower (a popular hangout for the youth of Istanbul, and me, to drink). It's generally quite lively yet you are under constant police supervision whom are only interested in evicting the unruly and seemingly musically talented. The beer helped to slightly numb the pain in my stomach. After a few hours I was obligated to visit her father's bar, right in the heart of the bar/club area. People everywhere! Bar after bar, jammed into narrow alley-ways. It was a bit mental. And drink rices here were ridiculous - how could so many Turkish people afford it???

Her father's bar was an unusual beast...struggling for many reasons obvious to me, yet handcuffed by building code restrictions, a PITA business partner and perhaps some poor judgement. Another couple hours there, and feeling mildly better, but still not much better than shite, Etna convinced both of us to go to a club. It was heaving. There till 4am and perhaps not a moment too soon. I'd had enough. An exhausting day.

The sequence of events the following three days is slightly hazy. Needless to say, most of the places Etna took me to were away from the tourist beat.

- Ortakoy and Bebek - Ortakoy is located on Istanbul Bogazi just north of the Bogazici Koprusu (bridge). Well known for its baked potatoes and cafes by the water. The strip of outlets selling the baked potatoes (and waffles) is intense. When you walk past them they all yell at you to buy one. You can also sit in the nearby cafes and have your waiter run and fetch it for you. Very peaceful area to while away an afternoon.

Further north by bus is Bebek, the Darling Point / Point Piper of Istanbul. Flashy cars, expensive boutiques and restaurants, all perched on the water's edge. Really beautiful area but full of pretentious people who think they are more important than they really are. Met a couple of Etna's friends at the Stabuck's there....incredible location spoilt by shite coffee (not that I dared try any). The mariner was filled with pricey yachts, surrounded by extra lavish mosques, clean streets and valet parking everywhere....even at the pub we went for a drink (The Tap Brewery - ordinary beer). Post cake at Divan Patisserie, we walked up the hillside, through the University grounds (after grabbing some beers),, to look down over the Istanbul skyline. Best view in Istanbul by far.

- Kadikoy - Ferry across to the Asien side and a very long walk along the water's edge towards the Port then cutting through inland by the E5 and down to the mariner. Further round near Caddebostan we stopped at a tea garden (tea not so good here)