Beautiful old town (said that a few time of late) surrounded by water (it is on an island). Much friendlier looking people, brilliant food…..just a pleasant feel about the place. Even when you walk through the back streets you feel perfectly safe. Lots of hidden restaurants in tiny, cozy piazzas and the most amazing little daily market (morning only) selling the freshest looking seafood and local-grown produce. Unfortunately much of the seafood is horrendously undersized. Get yourself a massive panini from one of the vans selling cheese and salamis and load it with parma ham, cheese and a pickled mix of olives, eggplant, capsicum and chilli. Or if you are more adventurous, get a bucket of fresh snail from the vendors on the street corners….watch the ones trying to escape though. Haven’t seen snails on the menu so far so not sure how the Sicilians typically prepare them.
Great town to be in if you are self-catering, although the hostel recommended some excellent places to eat at (possibly the best I’ve had in Sicily). This is unusual in itself as I frustratingly get cheap and cheerful suggestions from hostel staff (or the closest place) that is inevitably a let-down time and time again. You are often asking a young person who has different ideas of what is good food or is motivated to find the cheapest panini in town. LOLHostel was different, with a middle-aged local woman at the helm. Check out these places she recommended:
- Bar Midola (Corso Umberto, cnr Via R. Margherita I think) – try their arancinis (ragu). Best I had in Sicily by far. Exceptional. And a cannolo – I like the ricotta and pistachio filled ones.
- Voglia Matta Gelateria (Corso Umberto, cnr Via Palermo) – was told to go here for the almond granita (granite di mandorla), a Sicilian speciality, but they didn’t sell granita??? Their gelati however was very good and popular. They had an almond and fig gelati that I went back for again.
- Pizzeria D’Asporto – near Piazza Marconi along Via Elorina. Prepares the local pizzola speciality, a pizza that has a base and top as well...double carbs. I didn’t try one as it is too much dough for me, but their stock standard pizza was a winner. Popular with the locals too. Again, no pineapple in sight Fabry.
- One restaurant I didn’t get to try was Trattoria Cerocolo, in the tiny piazza along Via C. Reginale. This was a recommendation by the hostel and I have no reason to doubt it is good. They were quite friendly when we asked for a bar to watch the soccer in. Fairly typical menu. Extensive.
The nearest decent beach (Fontane Bianche) is around 30-40mins south by bus. It has sand! And some small rocky outcrops that you can swim to and practice your diving from. And a bar on the beach where you can get a beer. Don’t ask the local high school kids on the bus where to get off (like we did) as they will drop you in the middle of nowhere. Buses are infrequent so plan your return trip carefully else you will be stuck at the bus stop drinking beer whilst you wait….and wait....and wait. Not all bad. Lots of Russians at that stop.
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| Picture this black and white with just the box in colour...can't do that on my program. |
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| Lots of people with the after-effects of throat cancer |
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| Old women love to look out their windows |
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| Morning market....ricotta and sausage man |
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