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Monday, 7 October 2013

Ella Bella.......Ella, Sri Lanka

Nestled in the hills in the south of Sri Lanka, Ella is one of the two popular mountain towns providing a gateway to the tea country..... and fresh air. It is a rather small village centered around tourism these days with plenty of guesthouse options and surprisingly a variety of restaurants (which isn't always the norm). Mind you, Ella is well regarded for its very high quality food owing to the abundance and locally grown fruits and vegetables.

It was quite a change in climate from the baking hot and sometimes windy Arugam to the mild-to-warm mornings and misty rainy afternoons and evenings of Ella. A welcome respite. This did mean that you had to plan to do the majority of your sightseeing activities before 2pm where the weather could change rapidly....moist rolling clouds suffocating the mountain tops reducing visibility markedly with the threat of rain ever present. So take an umbrella with you everywhere.

Other than eating until you stomach is in pain, there are a few outdoor activities that you can do.

* Ella Rock - Quite a good walk through diverse landscape. Make your way to the railway station and walk left along the track for a few kilometres until you pass over the bridge. Once past the bridge take the first or second dirt path on the left and follow it over the footbridge and then continue ascending taking, taking the first right and then every subsequent left such that you remain on the left hand side of the mountain as you climb up. You will pass through vegetable fields, tea plantations and eucalypt forests. It can get steep towards the end but is well worth the effort if the skies are clear. Go earlier rather than later. The view point looks over the town, several tea plantations and the valley to the south. Perhaps 3-4 hours return.

* Little Adam's Peak - Not really much of a peak but a fairly gentle stroll 1.5km out of town and then you take a right at a restaurant and follow the path through a tea plantation before arriving at a set of stairs heading up to the peak. I did this walk a few times for the exercise. The view is quite good and you will probably see a few older women plucking tea leaves.

* The nine aches bridge - Head to the railway station and walk right along the track for at least 30 minutes until you arrive at the bridge. Inevitably you will be accosted by a teenage boy who will invite you to his family's home overlooking the bridge. Very hospitable with dreams of opening a small guesthouse and tea room. From here you can walk to the green tea factory which none of us actually liked the tea - hot grassy water.

* Waterfalls - There is one major waterfall 5-6km down the main highway. I never made it to it but get one of the million of buses heading down that way. You can't miss it as it is right on the side of the road. Walk up to the second pool to get away from all the local visitors.

* World's End (Horton Plains) - A solid two hour drive away very early in the morning but well worth visiting. You need to get there early so that you can walk to the view point before the late morning cloud rolls in and all but consumes it. Much of the landscape is very beautiful, a mixture of forest, rivers and grassy valleys. Find a few friends and split the costs as the vehicle costs and foreigner entry fee add up. A decent pair of walking shoes will make certain sections of the circuit easier.

* Jade Green Tea Centre & Restaurant - Tucked up above the BOC this is in my opinion the best restaurant on the main road. If ordering curry, drop in earlier and place your order as she makes just about everything fresh. The vegetables accompaniments are different to your more mainstream restaurants which is a welcome change. She even prepares a respectable lamprais. And the best thing is she probably has the cheapest prices in town! A must visit. Her watallappan wasn't up to scratch though.

* Sweet coconut filled string hoppers - A few shops in town prepares these every morning but get in fast as they often sell out by 10-11am. The string hoppers can be white or a reddish colour.

* The Curd Shop - I mention this place because it gets very good reviews. They do prepare reasonable quality food but their prices are grossly overstated, especially compared to Jade Green.

I stayed in Ella six nights in the end. Most people opt for around three but you can easily stay longer.

The walk to Little Adam's Peak....





Ella Rock walk....
















Horton Plains....








Some homestead on the way back



Nine Arches walk....














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